SEASONAL SERVICE:

Now we've come to what we at WCBR call "Seasonal Service", which translates into service jobs that should be taken care of every 8-10 races, roughly at half-season, and again at years end - before the start of the coming race season.  Your service schedule will depend on racing mileage covered, and how much abuse you've put your machine through.  Again, it is your responsibility to take care of your machine.

WARNING....... During any servicing of your machine you should use caution with regards to any work performed, as if done incorrectly, could be very hazardous to your health, which could result in injury or death.  WCBR assumes no responsibility for any such actions, injuries, or deaths, which are the direct, or indirect result of workmanship, servicing/repairs, parts and accessories.  It is the Owners Responsibility to make sure the machine is 100% race ready before proceeding out onto any racing track.  For owners unsure, or uncomfortable with performing maintenance, WCBR does offer a Racer Maintenance Program.


1) SUSPENSION: Servicing of both the Front Forks and Rear Shocks is very important, and should not be overlooked.  Poor condition and/or maintenance of these items can result in poor and/or dangerous handling, thus these should not be overlooked.

2) Front Fork Service
A) Raise machine on cycle-stand.
B) Remove safety-wire or tape from fork drain plugs.
C) Remove fork caps.
D) Place a drain pan under right fork and remove drain plug.
E) Holding front brake lever on, pump forks up/down to pump out fork oil.
F) Repeat "D" & "E" on left fork leg.
G) Refit, tighten and safety wire (or tape) both drain plugs.
H) Measure out and fill each fork with 110cc fork oil.
I) Lightly grease fork cap o-ring & threads.  Refit fork caps.
J) Check for leaks and/or spillage.  Clean as needed.



3)  Front Fork Seals
A) Drain fork oil, see #lA-F.
B) Remove front wheel assy.
C) Remove pinch-bolt from right fork leg.
D) Remove front fender.
E) Remove 8mm allen from bottom end of fork leg.
It may be necessary to pull down hard on the fork leg while un-doing allen bolt.  An airgun may be needed.      
F) Remove lower fork leg.
It may be necessary to hit the leg at the lower fender mount with a plastic/rubber hammer.
G) Clean fork leg 100%.  Clean fork tube also.
H) Remove oil seal.
I) Refit new fork seal, #0460.37.288 (31.5mm OD).  Grease Seal.
J) Refit fork spring to tube, followed by steel and fiber washer.
K) Refit Fork leg to tube.
It may be necessary to locate, then drive the damper rod into position.  Using a small dia/long punch, insert         up fork leg bottom hole to center damper rod.  Holding the fork leg up firmly, place a 3/8" to 1/2" dia
bar down inside the fork tube against the damper rod top, rapping it once or twice to seat damper rod.
L) Apply "Blue Loctite" and Refit/tighten damper rod allen bolt.
M) Repeat "E" thru "L" for other tube.
N) Reverse "B", "C" and "D".
0) Complete Front Fork Servicing, see #lG-J.
P) Safety Wire ALL front wheel axle & brake parts as required.
1980: Mike Green's mount for AFM 250 Modified Production... Chris Quinn's 250cc Diana. Best finish was a 4th.